Friday, March 14, 2014

Technical AR Principles: Holding Your Paddle

Technical Adventure Racing Principles #1 -- Holding Your Paddle

For the next few weeks, I will be posting general principles, methods, and suggestions on Adventure Racing disciplines. While an infinite number of volumes could be written on any one of the disciplines found in this sport, we have highlighted a few of the major points in order to help you develop yourself and your team as Adventure Racers. I am starting with Boat Basics and will eventually move on to Navigation, Climbing, and last, but not least, Biking.

#1. Holding Your Paddle

Curved and offset blades are standard on all performance paddles. Blade curvature imparts more power to a stroke than a flat blade, but it does make proper paddle control a little confusing at first. The concave side of the paddle is called the power face, and the opposite, or convex side, the non-power face. A paddle is always held so that during a forward stroke, the power face is pointed toward the stern, or the rear of the boat.


Because of the offset and curve, you need a strategy to make sure both blades enter the water with their power faces pointed back. Without such a system, one blade may slice through the water, offer no resistance, and possibly cause you to tip. Here’s the strategy: one hand, designated the control hand, maintains a firm grip on the paddle shaft and rotates the shaft within the other hand (the non-control hand) so that the correct blade angle occurs on both sides. Depending on the blade orientation, paddles are controlled with either the left or the right hand. Most paddles on the market are right-hand controlled. The control hand grips the paddle so that the wrist and forearm are at 90 degrees to the blade, with the power face pointed back. To place the opposite, non-control blade correctly, cock your control wrist out while maintaining the control grip. Keep in mind, for later reference, that there are times when you’ll want to cock your control wrist in. It’s not necessarily the case that left-handlers should automatically paddle left-handers should automatically paddle left-control. Some instructors go so far as to maintain that a paddler’s dominant hand should be the non-control hand.

Beginners sometimes mistakenly rotate the shaft partially within both hands. This causes blade disorientation because the permanent reference grasp the control hand is meant to provide, gets compromised. In addition, rotating the shaft within both hands makes it difficult to do some of the more precise strokes. If you’re having this trouble, try a visualization exercise and imagine that there’s super glue bonding your control hand to the shaft.

An oval shaft (instead of a round shaft), at least in the area of around the control hand, facilitates the correct positioning of the control hand and gives you more control over the blad angle with strokes such as the draw and the duffle (which will be explained in future posts). In addition, an oval shaft gives you a better grip and slightly more leverage with your control hand. If you already have a round shaft, you can make it oval in the control area by applying a thick line of Shoe Goo or some contoured fiberglass putty. You can even improvise an oval by placing a Popsicle stick on the non-power side of the shaft. A wrapping of electrical tape will secure the stick and provide a good grip.

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